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Day 33 – Pokhara to Sarangkot – Having decided to turn down the opportunity of trekking in Annapurna, I set myself the adequately tricky feat of climbing 1450m to the mountain viewpoint of Sarangkot. Before doing so, though, I hire a bike for two hours of strenuous hill riding. The afternoon hike proves hellishly difficult, but unexpected evening views past otherwise-persistent cloud make it worthwhile.
Tonights lodge is awful, and my choice not to eat there incurs scorn which lasts until morning check-out.

Day 34 – Sarangkot to Pokhara to Begnas Tal – After basking in tremendous morning views, I spend today getting lost and taking obscenely long routes to trek back down to pick up my backpack. To Begnas Tal, a lakeside resort, for some chill time.

Day 35 – Begnas Tal – Wake up. Sit. Have breakfast, lunch and dinner then go back to bed. (With just one brief excursion in the middle during which I am offered Nepali girls for 10minutes – I don’t enquire about the price.)

Day 36 – Begnas Tal to Gorkha – Public busses aren’t all good. Today I take 5. Each one only leaves any town when it is stuffed full. The 60km journey therefore takes 5hrs. Gorkha Durbar charges an entry fee for foreign visitors only, yet refuses non-Hindus entry to most sections. Meet more nice Dutch people – they are generally an adventurous bunch.

Day 37 – Manakamana – Everyone tells me I can’t walk to Manakamana. I’ll show them. And I do. With no map. Pilgrims in swarms disappear at 4pm, leaving a wasteland of cheap bracelet stalls.

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